I just stumbled across a well hidden back up folder and found lots of my old travel reports (from the days when ‘blogging’ was still pretty much unknown) and today I want to share those 2 videos showing what a reckless person I was back in 2001.
 |
 |
I actually did a second sky dive later (with Ritsu!) but no video of that exists …
 |
 |
Since I did a minced meat dish (Meatrolls in yoghurt sauce aka Kebab bil Laban) last night, I skipped meatballs, instead we had a nice Asian noodle / chicken dish.
 |
Early riser Julius helped me with my science experiment while we let mama sleep in.
I tried to recreate he Arabic flat bread experience … but a) it would have been good if I had looked for my rolling pin in advance (and then avoid figuring out that the dough should be really thin) b) it would be nice to have a 400 c stone / clay oven .. or simply a bakery that has this stuff ..
 |
It was about time, actually I wanted to get his mane off before or during our Jordan trip .. but we got it done today.
Nice place nearby, recommended by Sarah, 15€, though I think they should charge more for kids (as it takes longer and looks more annoying to do)
Julius hesitated initially when it was time to get up the chair, but the candy bribe worked very well and overall he behaved.
Now the summer can come!
(Why the Spice Girls music? That song happened to actually play in the back on the radio .. and I had not heard it in a decade .. and i liked it .. )
 |
Actually this video is titled ‘monkey see, monkey do’, as Julius bravely follows another kid in some dangerous jumping activity (the other kid got his knee bashed by a rock in the process)
Also a fine excuse to use Maurice Jarre’s soundtrack for Lawrence of Arabia … and the sunset scenery is just beautiful. (no color enhancement was used)
aka ‘The return trip from hell’
6:38 PM : we are leaving the hotel grounds and have to go several minutes in the wrong direction thanks to a funky access road until we find a u-turn (on a highway … imagine that!) … I find out that Jordanian drivers use their high beams for all kinds of signaling which makes me even more nervous about the night drive than I already am.
7:45 PM: we arrive at the airport and return the car .. we try to get into the check in area but are being told that we are too early and have to wait in a very uncomfortable seating area with both ‘no smoking’ and ‘smoking area’ signs … Julius continues his nap in his car seat. We are being told confusing estimates of when we can get in. (Jordan is doing their change to daylight savings time tonight which contributes to the general state of confusion)
21:00 PM: A loud tour group of Spanish travelers arrives, their tour guide tells them to already form a line which in Spanish seems to translate to ‘clog up the entrance’ … I talk to the tour leader and some airport official to make sure that we get in first since we have been waiting for a long time already. The airport official (pink folder guy) even takes our cart and pushes it to the front of the line .. very nice.
22:30 PM: Julius wakes up and finds a 17 months old girl to play with
23:10 PM: they finally open the gates and we can get in … Ritsu and Julius quickly through ‘ladies inspection’ to get to the check in counter first, while I do the whole security song and dance with all the luggage … at check in we find out that once again Air France’s computer system is very comfortable with seating a family with a 3 year old child all separately … But we are told they will work on it ‘just give me 5 minutes’ .. which is French for 22 minutes ..
23:40 PM: we go to emigration, avoiding a long line by waving Ritsu’s UN passport and going to the diplomat’s check point … but pink folder guy pushes part of the Spanish tour group in front of us .. we were there first and we actually have a diplomat passport … grrrrrr
midnight turns immediately into 1 AM: duty free shopping .. we buy so much bulky stuff that we even get a free roll-on bag .. the manager guy is super confused about some special offers which expired midnight …
1:40 AM: we move towards our gate and Ritsu discovers Cinnabon .. we just have to get some cinnamon rolls and a coffee … the clerk can’t even get a simple coffee order right, charges 40cents extra for milk .. and the security people would not let Ritsu bring the coffee into the next area .. sigh ..
2:10 AM: the airline announces boarding of our flight, business class and families with small children first … all members of the STG (Spanish tour group) are ignoring this and walz passed us, just to be super slow once they are in front of us …
| 2:55 AM: flight leaves on time .. no food until breakfast, no toy for Julius, who quickly sleeps .. Me, sitting at the aisle, I keep getting bumped into by STG members who ignore all signs of ‘sit down, buckle up’ … I just love the feeling when someone pushes down my head rest right into my sunburnt back …
5:50 AM: had no sleep .. breakfast smelled funny .. we land in Paris watching a beautiful sunrise (J still sleeping) .. now the big ‘chase your plane’ marathon begins … Charle de Gaul airport really sucks … we have to pass numerous controls and check points .. I wonder if the total distance is 3 – 5 km .. Julius is a trooper and only stops to take a good look at the airport train station … |
 |
|
6:50 AM: we reach the final security check and hear the final boarding call for our flight … sure enough, there is no one at security we can address with this … again, R&J go through first to run to the gate and me and luggage follow … and yes .. we make it barely in time ..
7:20 AM: our flight takes off in time, plane only half full, finally a bit of relax, nice croissant and at 8:45 AM we arrive in Turin … all bags accounted for and a taxi ride later we are home by 10 AM …
 |
The time has come, we had to get out of our hotel room by 1:30 PM (90 mins extension was all they could give us) but our flight leaves at the ungodly hour of 3 AM .. so, we are hanging around the hotel like gypsies, enjoying the kid’s game room where Julius made some more friends.
And then we were treated to probably the most beautiful sunset that we had on this trip:
All this running around in the kiddie pool took its toll on J’s sensitive feet and he scraped some skin off so it was bleeding …
But with the usual helpfulness and professionalism the life guard immediately had a first aid kit ready and patched our little man up.
 |
While yesterday’s lunch was pretty much cancelled (we had arrived late and had instead a big fruit basket), we visited the pool bar for some goodies .. Thai Beef Salad … was very little beef and very little Thai .. but still nice …
The Original Ishtar Burger is supposed to come with a tomato / red onion marmalade … when I inquired where it was, the very nice lady from Canada found out that the GM did not like the look of it and instead I got some sliced onions and tomatoes … I think the GM, like me, prefers the classic New York style burger …
Julius was eating all my potato wedges, fought with me over ‘tomato sauce’ but was in general very peachy, although already very much played out.
The world seems so small sometimes, we found out that one of Ritsu’s colleagues from Turin with her daughter was staying at the same time at the next door Marriot resort and invited them over.
Julius had tons of fun playing with the 10 year old Carla or just hang out and listen to music:
Wanna see them in action?
 |
Yep .. covering your body in mud here is a lot of fun .. and that floaty thing in the Dead Sea really works:
Somehow, Julius was not very fond of the whole mud idea .. but he would later help lathering it onto my feet.
|
You can’t visit Madaba without checking out the famous mosaic map.
It is not as impressive as the tour guides make it sound … but there is some fun song and dance around is, guides explaining outside (on easier-to-view copies of the mosaic) what is what … it is only 1JD .. and kinda one of the things to do in Jordan …
Also Madaba is a really lovely place … we did not have to face Amman downtown traffic because we stayed there in a very lovely hotel … and we visited a great restaurant twice .. and I finally got to buy my own waterpipe …
Today we ventured north to explore the remains of Gerasa, a Roman foothold in the Arabian world some 2000 years ago …
This place is vast and walking around for 3 hours in the scorching sun is not easy … but the ruins are very impressive and each pillar offers a tiny bit of shade.
Close to Jerash is the Ajlun castle which offers nice views (if there are ever any non hazy days in Jordan) and Julius had tons of fun checking out all corners and pathways.
There will be a gallery of pics later .. but I managed to break my SD card reader .. so .. right now I have only access to the pics on Ritsu’s cam
update Found another way to get files off my cam .. so enjoy the added video above and the gallery below:
 |
After 48 hours in the desert, there is no better way to get all the sand off than hopping under a natural hot waterfall:
We had left the camp in Wadi Rum early, dropped of a fellow traveller at the bus station in Ma’an and then criss-crossed Jordan (we were so far east that we had road signs pointing to Iraq), drove west, then all the way along the Dead Sea, and half an hour before our next night stop we swung by the Ma’in hot springs.
 |
Good things first: The main water fall is a lot of fun, the water balmy warm (even pleasant when it is already hot outside and the sun is grilling the skin off your bones) …
The not so good things: The whole complex is totally run down, the changing rooms are dirty, the other ‘attractions’, mainly the Roman bath looks like (as Ritsu put it) ‘a prison’ … it also seems to be way too hot … and it is quite a walk away … so .. main action at the big waterfall … the price at 10JD seems a bit steep .. it does include a free soft drink and a sandwich (laughable, but Julius ate lots of it) Worst thing was some family deciding to use the main water fall as their personal shower .. standing on top / the source for all water, soaping up and rinsing off .. few minutes later we were all enjoying the soap / filth left over … But we had the chance to soak in warm water, which was a bliss. |
 |
Friday 2 PM: We arrive at the Wadi Rum visitor center, buy two tickets at 2JD, have them call our tour guide / camp operator and quickly someone shows up to lead us to Rum village.
We hang out in Mohammed’s ‘office’ (one big room with all floor seating along the wall and a computer in the corner), enjoy some tea and discuss the plans for the next 48h while Julius hangs out with 3 of Mohammed’s kids, drawing and checking out the baby camels.
One of the drivers brings us to the camp, stopping by at Lawrence spring and Quattar spring .. supposed to big great sites .. maybe some hiking, climbing reveals more, but Julius is just happy with all the sand, pebbles, bugs ..
We arrive at the camp and Julius immediately finds Fiona, a 5 year old Danish girl and they are having a blast … more people arrive as sunset nears and all line up to watch it .. we hear last night the camp was rather full with 44 people and stealing mattresses & blankets was common practice, as was music and dancing until the wee hours.
Our tent is one of the 3 small ones, enough space for us and our stuff .. positive surprise when visiting the bathroom area, they DO have a western style toilet.
Soon everyone (tonight only 25 guests) sits around the camp fire, waiting for food, swapping stories, the kids are running around like crazy … finally the buffet is open and we all turn into vultures.
Food is quite good, several salads and veggie dishes … and then lots of chicken … while tasty, I was yearning for a bottle of hot sauce … tea is being served. Julius vanished and we find him in the arms on Hassan, who shows him video clips on his mobile phone … later we find him with a group of 3 water pipe smokers, he had discovered that they bear gifts (in form of potato chips) .. and since then has become inseparable.
Finally he is ready for bed and he and Ritsu go to the tent while I keep chatting with other guest, wildly speculating why one couple wants to go back to the village at this hour on camels … they finally get their wish and we see them trotting off in the moonlight …
As much as many were considering to sleep outside, including yours truly, the full moon is just way too bright and I join my loved ones in the tent.
Saturday: Waking up before sunrise and stepping out to see it .. very beautiful . the camp slowly wakes up.
Morning confusion .. over breakfast we are waiting for someone to tell us what is going on .. Mohammed shows up, assigns us a driver, leaves .. we ask the driver when we are going .. it appears he has not idea what our intentions are. One bitch call later (Ritsu is so good at that) we have a bit more of direction and we are setting off … to visit the site we already did yesterday … I try to explain that .. and finally the driver gets it .. and we go deep into the desert to watch some very beautiful sites (too many to mention ..
We stop for some morning tea, cooked on brush fire. We continue, find a fantastic stone bridge and in general just marvel at the beauty of the place.
Around 1 PM we are back at Mohammed’s ‘office’ enjoying some tea and hear that we are not done yet … we visit 2 more sites, one of which is supposed to be where T.E. Lawrence used to take a shower .. today the site itself is not that great, but the hike is nice.
Return to the camp and the waiting for food game begins again … to Julius’ delight, after having said goodbye to Fiona 3 times already, he now got Elsa and Nina, age 9 and 11, taking care of him in French and Italian.
Tonight’s group is 9 guests only, which means the camp guys skip the outside fire, instead we are roasting bunny shaped marshmallows inside the food tent after everyone has gobbled up the pretty much same dinner (chicken). More tea, telling stories around the indoor (in-tent?) fire and soon again time fo bed.
Sunday: Similar morning confusion, but finally we are in the jeep back to the village. 3 in front, 4 in the back, 2 on the roof … crazy stuff … we pay our dues, pack our car and off we go!
I have not had much time yet to weed through the many many pictures yet … so far i have it down to 129 .. might still have some dupes, silly shots … but if you need to see the pictures right now, have fun flipping through the gallery.
A night in a tent in the middle of nowhere … as long as he is wearing his jammies (AND socks) he is happy …
Here a good overview of our camp, we had one of those little tents, while others were stuck with some space in the large communal tents.
 |
One of my favorite pictures … but there is much more …
Screensaver size available upon request.
In the first few hours of our 2 night stay in Wadi Rum, Julius already made sure that he would not get bored and socialized with everyone who was his age, preferably female or had a bag full of chips!
There is so much more to write about Wadi Rum and I have a bazillion of pictures (some good ones, too!) .. but this might have to wait. Consider this just a teaser …
|
Great weather again and pool & beach so close ..
It is fun to watch how Julius has no problems apparently to talk to total strangers, in this case asking some Russian beach beauties for help reloading this squirt gun he had borrowed from another kid.
The rest of the day was the usual lunch at the pool side restaurant (They forgot my sheesh kebab, after I had confused the poor waiter asking him what the difference is between sheesh and kofta kebab), extended nap time (woke up too late to go to the pool again), packing, since we are leaving here tomorrow, and another exquisite dinner at the Lebanese restaurant.
There will be a break in updating, as we are exchanging this 5 star hotel for a Beduin tent (with a million stars to sleep under) tomorrow, and who knows how the online connection there is .. or the bathrooms … bathrooms? I hope they DO have bathrooms 
(just called them, they HAVE bathrooms … Beduin style = squat toilet .. adventure!)
|
Again, breakfast on the balcony to dodge the buffet .. plus the view is much nicer.
The view from there is just beautiful, especially at night. The other side of the hotel is getting the morning sun, while we get the sunset, they are looking at the lesser attractive port of Aqaba, while we see the mountains of Egypt and Israel…
“Thriving on past glory” is how the Lonely Planet guide describes this place .. After our visit I think it still has a lot of glory .. And lots of great fish.
We had hummus and moutabal as appetizers (Julius loves eating hummus after I told him it is ‘just like Nutella / chocolate’) and we also got some pickles, olives and a spicy tomato dip .. I still think those were freebies .. But since the check came in Arabic only (including the numbers) there was no way to check .. But the total number (30.50JD) made sense.
Ritsu went for the local Sayadiyah, fish battered and fried on rice topped with raisins and nuts while I had just simply grilled fish, and both were delicious. The J man ate a lot of the fragrant rice and both fish dishes .. I was very happy that he even ate the garnish carrot and cucumber slices, as long he could dip them in hummus, he was happy.
The staff was very friendly (especially with him, he got some little free desert) and service was overall very speedy and good.
Afterwards we walked around downtown Aqaba and I got some very nice spices (cumin, sumac and za’ater) which will end up in many dishes at home in the future.
Recent Comments